Monday, July 31

Moving into Gib - a better day
by
Adrian
on Mon 31 Jul 2006 20:21 BST
After a bad day yesterday we arose today with high hopes of getting into one of Gib's marinas, which would mean we would be securely moored and free to have a proper look around.
Jax went to the police sation again to report the outboard theft (now that the correct office was open) and by the time she rerturned we'd managed to reserve a berth in Marina Bay in the centre of town.

We moored up and set off to wander and do some tourist things. We managed to see the museum and shops - which being a tax free state, were very reasonable. We couldn't resist a 1l bottle of Captain Morgans Rum for £4.95 and a 1l bottle of Bombay Saphire Gin for £7!
We had also met up with two boats from the Rally (Lady Drake and Mary Lou) so in the evening had a few drinks in the marina bar whilst we swapped stories and plans.
Sunday, July 30

Theft
by
Adrian
on Sun 30 Jul 2006 20:21 BST
After arriving in Gib yesterday and anchoring we were keen to get out and have a look around, even though we had to land on the Spanish side of the border and cross on foot.

We set off in the tender to try to find somewhere safe to moor it whilst we crossed to Gib. We motored towards and along a small boat Spanish marina but were told we couldn't tie up there, so we continued along towards a small pontoon surrounded by a few fishing and rowing boats that was suggested by the official at the marina.
On the way another yacht hailed us over and told us that the area was unsafe to leave tenders due to theft and that one of us should drop the other off and pick them up later.
Our choice was to find as safe a place as possible, lock everything up as much as possible and go ashore and risk it or to stay on the yacht all day.
Since we needed provisions and wanted to visit Gib we chosew to tie the tender up and go ashore.
As it happens, most of the shops, museums and tourist attractions in Gib were shut as it was sunday so we found our way to a Safeways - which was fantastic, with all the supplies of a normal UK supermarket, bacon, sauces, ribena, crisps etc.
We stocked up and headed back to the boat dissapointed not to have been able to see the sights but both concerned about the tender. When we finally got back to where we left it the tender was there but the lock attaching it to the quay had been removed and the engine had gone. Bastards. We'd only left it for 4 hours in broad daylight...
Now you see it... Now you don't.... 
Fortunately for us the actual dingy was still there, so we took photos for the police and rowed the long way back to the boat.
I suppose we were lucky that the tender was still there. I guess if we'd been any later that would have gone as well and we'd have had to swim back to the boat.
Interestingly, the lock supposedly securing the outboard had been expertly removed with a blow from a rock.
So, we have had our first loss. Welcome to the med! Another lesson learnt at the cost of a £400 outboard. Luckily we'll be able to get about 1/2 of that back from insurance.
Once back to the boat (with all our shopping) we unloaded it all and were just about to set off back to drop Jax at the shore to go to the police station when our nearest anchor neighbours came over with condolancies having seen us row back and deduced what had happenned.
Apparantly the same thing had happenned to another boat the previous day. Someone must be watching the anchorage and making an easy living off 2nd hand outboards.
We chatted to them for a bit and then Jax went ashore to find the police. The office was closed so that evening we had a nice fajita supper and then rowed over to Jeff and Nicky's boat for drinks.
They are really nice people and as it turns out were just exiting the med after having been sailing around it for 4 years. They had loads of interesting stories and tales and endless useful advice and tips about what to do and where to go. We even ended up buying a whole bunch of their used western med charts from them for a very good price.
Saturday, July 29

To Gibraltar
by
Adrian
on Sat 29 Jul 2006 08:56 BST
Yesterday we arrived in Gibraltar. We were lucky to have a peaceful passage with no problems passing through the straight, but unlucky in that we had to motor 95% of the way due to there being no wind. The forecast had promised a F3-4 westerly, which would have been great, but after departing Cadiz at 0700 we encountered nothing more than 5-7 knots from the south.
Our passage planning must have worked well, as we were assisted nicely by the tides past Tarifa and into the straight, which at its best added over 2 knots to our boat speed over ground.

After 11 hours we finally entered Gibraltar bay with Africa clearly visible on our right, UK territory straight ahead and Spain to the left. The bay was quite busy with ferries, tankers, large container vessels and sailing yachts.

As we had feared, all the marinas said they were full, so we diverted to our fallback plan, which was to anchor north of the city in La Ligne (in Spanish territory, north of “the line”). The anchorage is peaceful enough and offers good shelter and holding.
It was 7pm by the time we arrived, so we weighted the anchor, checked it had set correctly and settled down to beans on toast, a quick drink and a game of backgammon.
Friday, July 28

To Cadiz
by
Adrian
on Fri 28 Jul 2006 14:26 BST
Today was a very long day; we anchored last night outside of the Olhao estuary near Faro in Portugal so that we could make a 3am start without worrying about the tidal streams on the ebb of the river. When we arrived yesterday evening the anchorage was deserted but had a nice and clear sandy bottom. We calculated the fall of tide, chose our position, found transits and finally anchored in 5m of water. Adrian had a swim around the boat and dived down to check that the anchor was set correctly. It was, and we were being held firm.

After a few hours sleep we both got up at 3am and were underway by 3.30. We had 80 miles to do to Cadiz across the bay, so we needed plenty of time just in case the winds were light and to give us some other time at the other end.
In the darkness we threaded ourselves out past another boat that had joined us and numerous lobster pot markers. It was quite a dark night with a new moon, but by starlight we sailed heading across the bay. Fortunately we encountered little fishing traffic, apart from one trawler that seemed to be going the same direction as us – which we eventually caught and passed.
Breakfast was a nice bacon sandwich – lovely!
During darkness the winds were variable so we motored and sailed until the morning where the winds rose to 20 knots and we had to reef to maintain boat balance. Later on the wind calmed to a nice 10-12 knots, which saw us making 5.5 knots on a nice steady beam reach. It was a bit strange doing an offshore passage again after so long pottering around the coast. At the middle of the Bay of Cadiz we were about 50 miles from land.
Despite taking turns to catch up on missed or fitful sleep, we were both still quite tired by the time we reached Cadiz harbour 15 hours later. After eventually mooring up (using Alan’s new technique) we had a bit of a snack then both collapsed into bed.
Well, here we are back in Spain, next step is Gibralter, after a rest day tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 25

Bit of extra training
by
Adrian
on Tue 25 Jul 2006 21:01 BST
Just relaxing after a busy day's sailing instruction with a chap called Alan who we know from a sailing school in the Algarve. We polished up on mooring skills, learnt a few new techniques and practiced a few Man Overboard drills.
It was really useful and helped us both with some of the more difficult aspects of sailcraft. It was great to have someone expert to bounce questions off and learn from.
Tomorrow we set off on our trip down the Portugese and Spanish coasts towards the Med - our first long trip for a month.
Sunday, July 23

Spanish house
by
Adrian
on Sun 23 Jul 2006 16:20 BST
We have decided to paint the inside of the house ourselves to save a bit of money so thats a big job we need to get around to. Possibly we'll be able to spend a bit of time here during August when not sailing - otherwise it will have to be in October when we´re next around.
Mark has done a fantastic job managing the project and has ensured the builders have worked hard and maintained high standards throughout.

The only issue now is our new neighbours that have crawled out of the woodwork with what seems like possibly legitimate claims to part of the adjoining ruina. It seems that despite our care and use of a recommended lawyer we received bad and possibly frauduent advice and information about the property and its full title.
That discussion will take a long time to resolve so until then we have a fantastic 3 bedroom house in the beautiful picturesque and quiet Spanish countryside that we can use and rent out.
Another bit of luck is the news that finally we'll be able to get internet at the house via a countryside long range wireless provider.
Saturday, July 22

Spain
by
Adrian
on Sat 22 Jul 2006 15:55 BST
Today we were up early to hire a car and drive to Spain to see the Spanish house. After having to wait for over two hours whilst they found us a car (they hadn't received our internet booking) we drove 400km and eventually arrived at Jane and Mark's at 5pm. Typically Jane and Mark made us very welcome and provided us with a lovely evening meal on their sun drenched patio whilst we brought them up to date with our latest adventures. Mark has been managing the building work on our house whilst we've been away so we were keen to see the house and the building progress. The house is almost finished and looks fantastic. The once smelly, small and dark rooms are now open, warm and inviting, whilst the pool is now all clean and ready for water. The renovation has taken a long time and despite us not doing much physical work ourselves yet has been very strenuous and taken a lot of our time and money to organise.  Thankfully the tiles and bathroom fittings we chose all on one mad day back in January look fantastic and the builders have done a wonderful job. The place is amost finished and will take just a couple more weeks.
Friday, July 21

Portugal again
by
Adrian
on Fri 21 Jul 2006 14:55 BST
Yesterday we arrived back in Portugal after being home for 2 weeks. The boat was as we left it, albeit covered in red dust - which actually was saharan sand, deposited by the winds and rain. After giving the boat a good spray down and clean we met Roger (Jax's boss from the Guardian) to take him out sailing for a day. The wind was slight to start with but after a couple of hours grew to 15 knots which was fine for a gentle sail.
Roger was keen to learn and hopefully had a good introduction to yachting. Once we had returned to port and packed the boat away we had a well deserved ice cream and then drove to Roger's Portugese house in the country to spend a pleasant evening with him and his wife (Rachel) sipping wine and enjoying a meal in a local restaurant.
Thursday, July 13

Back in the UK
by
Adrian
on Thu 13 Jul 2006 09:10 BST
We've been back in the UK for 5 days now, frantically catching up with friends, bills, house maintenance and garden jobs. Portugal seems a long way away and we've both quickly become used to dry land again, although we can't wait to get back to the boat.
Went to Mel and Dan's joint 30th birthday party the other day, which was a blast. Typically we were also invited to Janet's birthday meal at the same time so we did a quick visit for drinks then went back to Mel's.
Sunday, July 2

Steve and Karin
by
Adrian
on Sun 02 Jul 2006 22:38 BST
After a very slow start by the crew (due to hangover and problems getting up) we eventually left Lagos at 2pm for a brief sail around the bay and up to Portimao.

This was Steve and Karin’s first proper sail so we took it easy and had a smooth relaxing ride. Everyone seemed to enjoy it but we all felt tired as evidenced by the early supper and early night.


Amanda leaving
by
Adrian
on Sun 02 Jul 2006 22:38 BST
Today was a sad day, as after over a month with us on board our long standing crew member Amanda left us to return to the UK. We all had a great time sailing with her and thoroughly valued her sailing experience, conscientiousness, attention to detail, and drinking ability. We hope she enjoyed the trip as much as we did and we thoroughly enjoyed her friendship and company. Good luck with the summer work, your NZ trip and winter season. We hope to catch up with you back in the UK soon and don’t forget you’re welcome on our boat or house anytime.

We’re not saying Amanda did all the hard work, but after sailing today Jax was shocked to find blisters on her hands!

Football
by
Adrian
on Sun 02 Jul 2006 22:38 BST
Today we spent a quiet morning looking around Lagos town then met Steve and Karin at the marina. After a bit of food we settled into a bar in the centre to watch the England Portugal quarter final match. Unfortunately England failed again on penalties so we spent the rest of the night in a general melee and continual party of celebrating Portuguese. We have noticed previously that the Portuguese celebrate every win as if they had already won the world cup and today was no exception. Cars sped around the town with bunches of people with flags and horns hanging out of windows shouting and celebrating. It was good to see, despite the cost. I wonder what it would have been like if England had won.

The evening meal was pleasant, followed by one last trip to the legendary South bar at the marina for drinks. Fortunately everyone was pretty tired so we staggered home at 2.30am. Special mention must go to Karin for literally falling over whilst upright and stationary at the bar. Fortunately the bottle of coconut liqueur she was holding was saved and no damage was done.

Early morning tomorrow to see Amanda off.
Wednesday, June 28

Beach Time
by
Adrian
on Wed 28 Jun 2006 09:35 BST
Today a group of us (Mike, Kate, Adam and us) took the boat out of the harbour and anchored near a small deserted beach and caves. Once the anchor was secure, Adam, Mike and Amanda dived overboard and swam to the shore whilst the rest of us piled into the dingy and motored in with supplies and toys (Frisbee, beach ball etc).

We spent a fantastic afternoon on the beach sunbathing, swimming and listening to the tennis on the short wave radio. We were only disturbed by small tourist boats passing by pointing at what we thought was us but actually after a while waving back seemed to be the rocks behind us.
Tuesday, June 27

Lagos
by
Adrian
on Tue 27 Jun 2006 09:35 BST
The day after the sailing had finished was spent pottering around, meeting with people and relaxing. Adrian spent most of it running around collecting and sharing photos that people had taken of other boats whilst sailing. Everyone was pleased to have decent pictures under way, which generally are hard to get.
The prize giving in the evening was held in a bar/restaurant on the beach, which was pleasant, if not a bit chilly. The food was good and drink plentiful. With some sadness listened and remembered some of the stories and tales of people’s adventures in the final prize giving. Everyone received a commemorative plaque in recognition of their achievement.
Inevitably, the night stretched into a mammoth drinking session with a 6am return by the girls.

Sines to Lagos
by
Adrian
on Tue 27 Jun 2006 09:35 BST
The last leg of our trip was to take us south along the coast for about 50 miles then the big turn east for the first time during our journey to head into the Med. It was going to be a long 75 mile day so we were up early at 6am for a 7am departure.
Jax and Amanda brightened things up considerably though by wearing their specially prepared “Rally” and “Portugal” yellow mini skirts and yellow T shirts (despite the cold morning and under protest from Jax). I think everyone appreciated their gesture of fun on a dark morning – many photos were taken.

The start was from in the harbour basin and was called in the traditional form of a 10 minute then 5 minute countdown. Then the last leg had started and we were all heading out together for the last time. It was a beautiful morning with crisp light but only light winds, so after ½ hour struggling to make way we decided (with a couple of others) to motor for a few hours until the wind increased to allow us to sail.

By midday there was some wind movement so we set sails and proceeded at a reasonable pace down the coast. The sun was out, it was warm and we were having a great sail.
At the Caba de Sao Vinente we turned east and officially passed the southern most point of the European mainland. One of the other boats had been on the radio telling us of the tradition of dipping one’s ensign in the sea as such a cape is rounded as thanks for a safe passage, which we performed dutifully. We did however call up the fleet and pretend to have dropped our ensign in the sea as a wind up, which some people fell for.

The last stretch was with pleasantly fresh winds from our forward port quarter, so we had a great sail – so much so that we ended up 10 minutes ahead of our target ETA. Since this was the only prize we had a chance of winning on this leg, Adrian did his best to slow the boat down slightly, but we still averaged a speedy 7 knots. As it happened the finish line was craftily placed to force a couple of tacks to manoeuvre across it, so we ended up 6 minutes behind schedule. Not bad for a 14 hour sail, but not good enough to win the ETA prize - which someone achieved by 30 seconds.
Our arrival in Lagos marked the end of this stage of our journey and an end of the Rally. Jax and Amanda donned their yellow outfits again and passed around the boats dishing out malteesers. After mooring up, an impromptu pontoon party started with drinks and nibbles brought by all the boats. Later, after tidying up everyone retired to one of the marina bars to continue the celebrations into the night.

Not surprisingly, Jax and Amanda became the party animals and led the way for a hard core group to continue drinking until 5am. Luckily, Adrian managed to slope off to bed at 3am. The next day, we arose to a hearty full English breakfast in one of the marina cafes – some decidedly worse for wear.
Friday, June 23

Cascais and Lisbon
by
Adrian
on Fri 23 Jun 2006 12:27 BST
We've been here for 2 days now and the weather is hot and sunny. The girls have been on a trip to an historic town this morning (Sintra?) whilst I've been into Lisbon to get a few bits and pieces from the chandlers.
Tonight we have a prize giving meal then tomorrow morning its off on our penultimate sail to Sines - last stop before rounding the corner and heading east towards the med.
Its strange to think the rally is coming to an end. We've become great friends with the other boats and have been through a lot with them and will miss their support and presence.
After Lagos some people are taking their boats to the Cannaries ready for an Atlantic crossing, some are staying in the Algarve and others like us are heading into the Med.

To Cascais
by
Adrian
on Fri 23 Jun 2006 11:20 BST
Arrived in Cascais near Lisbon yesterday evening after an interesting day's sail.
We started fantastically with a dramatic unfurling of our big red Twistle sail right on the start line and shot off like a rocket. With 20 knots of wind directly behind us we cruised away from the fleet at a steady 7-8 knots. The wind was perfect for us and allowed us to keep dead to our required course.


The sun was out and apart from a bit of atlantic swell we sailed fantastically for 6 hours. We were finally overtaken by a couple of the larger yachts but were still ahead of most. Thats when things changed a bit!
We'd been told earlier by the organisers that when we rounded a headland near the finish the wind could increase dramatically by up to 2 forces. This didn't seem like it would present too many problems as the wind was between 15 and 20 knots but we reefed the Twistle early in anticipation.
As we continued south the winds grew steadily until one of the leaders a few miles ahead reported back winds gusting 50 knots and bad storm conditions. We decided to pack away the Twistle and set up a fully reefed mainsail.
This is where the fun began! We were very exposed at the time and were overpressed with even a reefed mainsail so we decided to go bare poles and motor the 1/2 hour until around the corner and out of the wind.
With winds of over 35 knots we struggled to get the main down. The boat was being bashed around and we were on deck trying to get a sail tie around the dropped mainsail to stop it flogging around in the wind.
It was pretty hairy stuff despite being hanked on and in full life jackets. The sea was covering us and the boat with heavy spray whilst the wind made it very difficult to pull down and secure the sail.
After Amanda and I finally managed to cast a sail tie over and secure the mainsail I had to go up front again to get the Twistle sail down as it hadn't furled properly in the strong wind and was flapping around quite violently. This was really difficult to control as it came down as it was flogging back and forth and I could hardly grip it. After a few minutes struggle and being thrown about it was down on deck and secured. My arms ached and I could hardly clench my fists they were so fatigued.
With all sails down we returned to our course and set off around the headland. Ironically, 10 minutes after clearing it the wind dropped to almost nothing!
We set our sails again and slowly sailed the last few miles until the wind died completely and we said 'buggrit' and motored to the finish line.
Hopes of a good finish had faded and we lost about 3 places in the struggle to get our sails sorted. At least we learnt a few things. Our maximum wind was between force 8 and 9 - very nasty. The boat and we made it through unscatched, save for a few skinned knees, bruises, aching limbs and an impromptu soaking.
Needles to say, we all had a well deserved drink in the evening after mooring up.
Tuesday, June 20

Peniche
by
Adrian
on Tue 20 Jun 2006 11:49 BST
Yesterday´s sail was quite difficult due to constant downwind conditions that made it tricky to keep the course. We were pretty rushed in the morning so had a bad start, and spent most of the day catching people up. We eventually finished in the top 8 or so, so didn´t do to bad.
We alternated between our downwind twistle sail and our normal sails all day, so there were lots of sail changes and deck work. In the evening we just ate on board (a nice pasta dish prepared by Jax) and had an early night.
Today we´re visiting Obidos (an old walled city) which is pretty quaint and impressive. Fortunately it also has a free Internet cafe!
Football tonight, so in the bar again.

Peniche
by
Adrian
on Tue 20 Jun 2006 11:48 BST
Yesterday´s sail was quite difficult due to constant downwind conditions that made it tricky to keep the course. We were pretty rushed in the morning so had a bad start, and spent most of the day catching people up. We eventually finished in the top 8 or so, so didn´t do to bad.
We alternated between our downwind twistle sail and our normal sails all day, so there were lots of sail changes and deck work. In the evening we just ate on board (a nice pasta dish prepared by Jax) and had an early night.
Today we´re visiting Obidos (an old walled city) which is pretty quaint and impressive. Fortunately it also has a free Internet cafe!
Football tonight, so in the bar again.

Peniche
by
Adrian
on Tue 20 Jun 2006 11:36 BST
Yesterday´s sail was quite difficult due to constant downwind conditions that made it tricky to keep the course. We were pretty rushed in the morning so had a bad start, and spent most of the day catching people up. We eventually finished in the top 8 or so, so didn´t do to bad.

We alternated between our downwind twistle sail and our normal sails all day, so there were lots of sail changes and deck work. In the evening we just ate on board (a nice pasta dish prepared by Jax) and had an early night.
Today we´re visiting Obidos (an old walled city) which is pretty quaint and impressive. Fortunately it also has a free Internet cafe!
Football tonight, so in the bar again.
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